Servicing the Jensen FF
Dear Diary discusses servicing the Jensen FF chassis number 119/191
From the Handbook of Instructions for the FF (October 1969)
FF Maintenance Chart
JACKING | AXLE STANDS
Jacking the Front
The manual provides: “When jacking up the rear end precautions are necessary to avoid damage to the subframe. For this purpose it is recommended that a steel bar measuring 3 inches by 5/8 ths X 23 inches be placed between the jack pad and the sub frame in line with the front upper suspension link.”
It has also been suggested that a suitably sized piece of 2″ X 4″ will do the same job ( if your car isn’t so low that you can’t get it in)
Before I read this instruction in the manual I was told to just jack it on the front chassis cross tube. ( have to say that this is still the way I do it, contrary to the manual):
Jacking point used is the front body tube. As the FF engine is on a subframe, jacking on the subframe itself is likely to rip it away from the body?
When I put the car up on axle stands I jack it up closer to the sill (still on the large chassis tube) and then place the axle stands inboard (still on the chassis tube). I repeat for each side.
Jacking the Rear:
Place a piece of 2″X4″ wood under the rear chassis tube at the jacking point location
Engine oil sump. Showing drain plug.
Photo of spare oil filter bowel showing the drain plug underneath.
Rear diffential filler/level plug Rear differential drain plug
Photo showing front differential filler/level plug and drain plug at bottom. Use Castrol Hypoy
Photo showing grease nipple on front axel to be graesed every 12,000 miles
Fuel filter located underneath car at the front and on the offside rail, to the rear of engine sump.
Photo showing centre differential (transfer box). The number is 102/195. Note box drain plug at bottom right hand side. I am now using Castrol Dextron 3 instead off the originally recommended Castrol TQ. When I came to change the oil, there wasn’t any. It must have leaked out over the 12 years it was stored.
I ask the List the following question about servicing the Jensen FF:
“I will be recommissioning an Oct. 1969 FF very soon and I will need, amongst other things, all the normal service items. Given that time has moved on since the cars manufacture. Do people still use:
The answers I received were:
2) I recommend the K&N Oil filter what a beautiful thing that is Has a hex nut on the end of it and the oil comes out the same colour it goes in. Of course the filter is 11 dollars but when you buy two filters a year it pays for itself. I’ve figured out my Mobil1 K&N changes compared to Dino oil and have come up with Mobil 1 two oil changes a year dino 7 changes a year so 64 dollars a year for Mobil 1 or 133 dollars a year for dino juice.
4) I’ll answer this question If you will allow me. I strictly use Mobil 1 10W30 in my engines Mobile 1 90 weight Gear lube in the rear and I don’t believe in automatic transmissions unless your 16 or a woman. By the way my Oldsmobile that has ran Mobil1 since birth 10 years ago just passed 212,000 My Supercharged Stang has ran Mobil 1 and has 50K on it without any trouble.I’ve never had a problem with the full synthetic damaging my lead heads.
5) I strictly use KENDALL GT-1 20W-50W in all of my cars. This is the most purest oil out there on the planet. You can easily get from 250,000 up to 400,000 plus miles, if the oil is changed regularly.My 1985 Audi 5000CS Turbo was using one quart of oil every 700 miles. When I was told about this five years ago, I flushed the engine and started using Kendall. I went almost 4000 miles before I had to add a full quart of oil. It made a believer out of me. I now have 200,000 miles on the engine, and I have never even took off the valve cover. I will be changing oil in my GT this weekend and replacing it with Kendall.As far as spark plugs, I recommend the NGK Racing plugs for the hi-performance V-8’s. I use them in my 1982 Dodge 360cid, and it starts and runs great. I will go with them in my Interceptor, after I do an engine rebuild, hopefully this year.
8) These engines will often cavitate if you don’t prime the oil filter bowl during an oil filter changes.
When I did the last engine oil change I replaced the original sump plug with a magnetic one obtained from Cropredy Bridge Garage
Photo of the replacement silicon sparkplug leads from Customville. Fitted OK. I also ended up using some plastic ties to help hold No 1, 6 and 8 leads away from the exhaust manifold.
I was advised that Autolite 85 Spark plugs are very good, as are Blue Streak contact breaker points.
Photo of fuse box
I asked the list about belt widths:
I have a 1969 MK 1 FF. Does anyone know the correct width or the best width for the alternator and power steering belts? I’ve got belts which are 10mm and 12.5mm.
1.They are actually 10.5mm ..
Alternator belt Dayco 15375 11A0950 -229
Alternator belt Chrysler 2806216 42095 910D
Power steering belt Dayco RD Gold 3798 —-329-17435 13A1105 – this belt has a 12.5mm width
FRONT WHEEL HUB/BEARINGS:
12,000 miles: Inspect, repack if any signes of leakage.
36,000 miles Clean and repack
To repack the front wheel bearings:
REAR WHEEL HUB/BEARINGS:
Photo showing right hand side rear grease nipple for rear bearing (same on the left hand side)
Inspect, clean and repack only if grease has emulsified or been contaminated through damaged inner or outer seals
2)The workshop manul refers to filling the hub bearings with grease until it comes out of the vent hole on the oposite side. However, in practice, there arn’t any vent holes. Excess grease would probably force itself through the inner seal into the dif