|Dear Diary discusses the instruments & interior to Jensen FF chassis number 119/191
From the Jensen FF Mk1 sales literature relating to instruments & interior: “Safety belts to both seats which are fitted with finely adjustable reclining hinges incorporating quick release for access to rear seats. Map pockets to both doors. Center mounted lockable compartment. Covered pockets in rear armrests. 16 cu. ft. (45 m3) luggage compartment with spring loaded self supporting lid. Radio: Fully transistorised, twin speakers”
Photographs of cockpit
Revcounter pod removed showing burnt out white/black wire (due to mice nest inside dash) going from ignition switch via rev counter to Ballast resistor mounted by coil. (Note the speedometer head was replaced under warranty at 86 miles due to a “seized head” ( part No. CT.888 ) )
View behind front pod
The beginnings of the mice nest
The nest. Note also the wing nuts on the second photograph, that holds the center pod in place.
Slightly more detailed view of burnt out wire going through rev counter sensor. It should be a white wire that is actually wrapped twice round a terminal, that is, an inductive type pickup. The type of wire I personally used to replace the burnt out one was rated at 18 amps, (it runs between the ignition switch and ballast resistor) isn’t relevant. However the direction that the wire runs through the tachometer is. At first I just ran the replacement wire through the tachometer terminal and it wouldn’t work. Then on advice, I reversed the direction of run through the tachometer, looped it and it worked (You have to feed it back on itself and it feels all wrong ) There is no electrical connection with the white wire, just this white wire, ground and power. I understand that the tachometer usually over reads on recommissioning. Easy to adjust though, with the screw at the back. Evidently this type of tachometer is rare and isn’t on any other car other than CV8s, Mk1 Int and FF.
Some months later the tachometer stopped working and I once again asked the list about it. Their (and my) responses were:
Problem solved. As you all may remember my rev counter stopped working and I wanted to trace the voltage stabiliser to see if it was that. Thanks to the list I found and replaced the stabiliser (£12 + VAT from Cropredy Bridge Garage) which made no difference at all and then having done a few more tests ended up buying a second hand rev counter from Cropredy Bridge Garage (about 30- 40 minutes away) for £20. (Out of interest they sell reconditioned ones for £50). I also contacted Speedograph Richfield Ltd (mentioned below) and they advised that it would be £50 too, depending on what was wrong and it would be 2-3 weeks at the moment and even longer when the light nights start (all prices relate to 2005).
A summary of the responses and an additional question posed by someone else follows:
Photo1 shows the location of the voltage stabiliser. Photo 2 shows the old (right hand side) and replacement (left hand side) stabilisers. Note one of the pairs of terminals on the new one are female not male as on the original one. I’m not sure if it is correct, particularly as the fuel gauge seems to be more inaccurate than ever.
1. The stabiliser is under the dash mounted on the steering column. The flasher is there too. If I remember right? You just look under the steering wheel to see it. Mine was easy to see.
9. Until the 1980s most tank gauges incorporating a warning light worked like this: A float on an arm connected to a rotational potentiometer (sealed unit) is
Final update to the List:
Firstly, I recently replaced the voltage stabiliser on my 1969 Mk 1 FF with one I bought from Cropredy Bridge garage. However, it had one pair of female terminals and one pair of male terminals on the back , whereas the original one on the vehicle had two pairs of male terminals . I adapted the female terminal on the new voltage stabiliser to a male one so as to fit the female connector on the wire. After reinstalling the unit it made no difference to the rev counter, which was the original reason for doing it and which I now understand is only to be expected, but the new one produced a faulty low reading on the fuel gauge.Having comprehensively tested the new and old stabilisers with the engine off and with it running my voltmeter indicated that they were producing different voltages. The new one produced a varying voltage between 2 volts and 6 volts and resulted in a low reading on the fuel gauge. The old unit produced varying voltages between 5 and 11 volts. I reinstalled the original voltage stabiliser and all is now well. There is obviously a difference between the stabilisers, which I will be taking up with Cropredy. I suppose the different connectors should have warned me but I just thought over the years it had been superseded by a generic one. Secondly, having fixed my rev counter? I found, as another writer did that it read too high. Per suggested drilling a hole in the back of the rev counter to expose the adjuster inside I drilled the hole and adjusted the rev counter, comparing it against my trusty Gunson’s Testune. Perfect.
Photos of the adjustment of the rev counter which was showing about 1500 rpm more than it should have. Arrow shows the location of the hole drilled to allow access to the adjuster. Adjusted using a small elect. screwdriver. Very easy and satisfying job
Photos showing speedometer cable attachment at autobox end.
Photo showing the eight tracks’ amplifier? hidden under passenger dash. This unit connects to the eight track/radio through a 9 pin socket.
On December 25th 2003 I received a mp3 player for installation in the Jensen. This meant I could put the Voxson 8 track back and still be able to play my music. A friend investigated the old set-up and how I could put in the equipment:
The stereo speakers have a common earth unlike more modern set-ups.
If you were replacing the existing amplifier because it isn’t very good or broken or you just don’t have one:
N.B.(1). The live feed for the radio comes via the amplifier through the umbilical wire (thick black/white wire socket/pin No. 8 on diag.) N.B. (2) a cd changer needs a different approach because there is not normally a separate control module as you have on the mp3 player.
Photo of the Voxson radio/8-track
Photo of underside of radio showing trimmer screw
Photo showing the separate amplifier pair of red wires feed the left speakers, pair of black the right. Grey wire has an inline fuse attached and is the live feed. Thick umbilical wire has the 9 pin socket
Side view of amplifier showing the positive/negative earth switch
View showing amp and radio connected (connector clamp loose on wire)
Photo with the important? wires detailed
View showing the signal wire connections inside amp. Note the common earth
General view of signal wire connections
Photo showing the new additional soldered connections for the signal input from the mp3 player
The original idea of running the Mp3 player through the original amplifier failed. After connecting everything up the player only ran through one channel and with allot of interference noise. Another specialist said it would never work because the output from the Mp3 player would never be enough to for the old analogue amplifier? As it was at some point during the process I broke the amplifier. So I revisited an idea that Douge Myer told me he used on his wife’s Mk1 interceptor. Put a modern setup behind the Dash pod and use the face plate off the 8-track to give the appearance of originality.
I used a spare Sony tape player that had less depth than the CD player I had and would drop back below the face of the pod. I couldn’t bear the though of cutting a bigger hole in the original pod so I bought a second hand one, cut the whole and transferred over the instruments. I then connected up an FM modulator (came with the mp3 player) and fitted the mp3 player under the front seat. I chose this location as opposed to the boot because I thought the environment in the cockpit area would be more hospitable.
I needed to raise the seat a little so the mp3 player mounted beneath the seat would move over the crossmember in the floor when the seat was moved backwards or forwards. Access to remove the hard drive is from the front under the drivers seat.
The necessary wiring runs up the side of the transmission tunnel, under the centre cubby, behind the centre instrument panel to the hidden radio cassette.
Final result. Still needs some crinkle finish black paint. There is a small hinge underneath and the face plate luckily just clips home when pushed up. The face plate and bits are easily remove from the 8-track without damage and could be returned if I find the time to ever go down the originality route.
Photos showing location of the switch for the factory fitted rear speakers.
Photos showing manufacturers cut outs in parcel shelf for additional speakers..
Rear seat removed showing the 4 mounting rubbers. The two bottom ones are about half an inch thick and the two top ones are about one inch thick.
Photo of the emergency boot release between spare tyre and rear valance
Photos showing electric window winder on offside door. The gunge all over the inside of the door is Dinitrol waxoil.
Photo of headlining
Photos inside boot area.
Photo showing steering wheel boss and fitting
Photos 1 & 2 showing rear view mirror with integral interior light.
FITTING REAR SEAT BELTS
Others on the list have had the following to say on fitting rear seat belts:
1. I’ve fitted so-called “generation belts” with a slider to accommodate both adults and small children in the back. As far as I can remember there are no mounting points in the back, but pulling the rear seat cushion which simply pulls out you should be able to verify this. I think I drilled holes into the rear wheel well, and used the prescribed load spreading plate on the wheel side of the bolt. Similar for the diff hump. In both cases the hole is in the sidewall of the cushion “well”. The reel fits underneath the rear parcel shelf steel plate. I consider that this plate being welded to the substantial cross tube at it’s front edge, to the body at the sides, and bent to reinforce it at the rear edge, is good enough. You will have to make a small slit to let the belt through, make sure it doesn’t fray the belt or cut it under load. Use your own judgment as to what’s necessary in this area. Speaking for myself I believe it’s at least sufficient for children. The belt simply comes up from the seat well between backrest and cushion, so make sure the belt to be used has webbing on both sides of the buckle. The plastic coated stiff wire will make fitting troublesome.