Chrysler 383 Engine
|Dear Diary discusses the Chrysler 383 engine
From the Jensen FF Mk1 sales literature: ” Chrysler 383 engine 90 degree Vee 8, O.H.V. with hydraulic tappets.
Crankshaft. Fully balanced, 5 main bearings.
Fitted with torsional viabration damper
Lubrication System: Externally mounted rotor type pump with combined full flow filter. Paper element.
Photo 1& 2 oil pump location. Photo 3 engine mounting point for oil pump. Photo 4 oil pump as removed from car( I found it easier to remove the hoses at the oil filter. Photo 5 comparison of old and new pumps Photo 6: ……………….Photo 7: location of pressure switch and oil feed to oil pressure gauge.
I had a problem relating to oil pressure loss which eventually ended up with me getting 2 bent pushrods.
My questions and responses to the Jensen list were:
…………..I’ve been recommissioning an FF (with Chrysler 383 engine no.1801/19E). I’ve had the engine running in the car, on the driveway, with 50 plus psi oil pressure for a few weeks now. I took the car out on the road for the first time ( just a few short runs up and down the road outside the house). Big smile on my face ,when suddenly the red oil pressure light came on and the oil pressure gauge dropped to zero. Big smile now gone. I think the pressure gauge is of the capillary tube type so given that both the electric red oil pressure light and the physical oil pressure gauge both show a problem I think it’s reasonable to presume its not just a technical fault. I’ve checked the oil pressure relief valve and that doesn’t seem to be a problem so I’m going to remove the oil pump.
1. Is the problem just a blockage of the relevant oil passage way serving
……………. I checked the pressure relief valve first. Then bought and fitted a new pump. Removed the drive through the distributor hole. All OK.( much to my surprise). I took the oil filter out of the housing and watched the oil feed into the filter housing. I have concluded that, Given it was stored for some 12 years something has dislodged and blocked one or more? of the oil passageways. I’ve tried 40 psi down the oil pressure gauge hole in the engine block but still no oil coming up in this area. What does this area feed oil to.
………………..After setting the valve timing and before putting it all back together I hope to:
The responses were:
1) I would not start that engine again, at all. I would only test oil pressure using a pump priming shaft. There is also a shot of the oil pump priming shaft, at the very front off the picture. This hex shaft goes in a cordless drill, and lets you test oil pressure without starting the engine, prime the engine after a lay up,etc. You remove the timing gear/pump drive, drop the rod in the hole, and start the drill for a bit. I bet Jegs would send you one for 20 dollars or so inc. post.
photos of top of oil pump/distributor drive ( after removal of distributor) and the shaft as removed. This drive shaft is is simply pulled out to allow the priming shaft to be inserted.
Heartened by a couple of response I chose to just replace the 2 bent pushrods. It was suggested to me that I could use a wire to keep them all in place when re tightening the rocker shaft.The Big Block Mopar engine book suggests you take the old pushrods out and turn them round I you are going to reuse them This I did, however, I didn’t break the seal (hydraulic -between the pushrod and lifter) on one of them and accidentally pulled the lifter straight out. I had one of those magnetic pick up rods for screws etc. and I was able to just pick it up and put it back. If I had known how easy it was going to be I wouldn’t have cussed so much.
The rocker gaskets I took of were made of cork, which I understand was incorrect. These came from Martin Robey’s. Cost………………………………
Copy of an article produced in the White Lady dealing with problems with the nylon coated camshaft sprocket. My thanks to \\David Crown for the article.
To get to the valve timing chain I had to remove the power steering pump bolts and then suspend it to one side( hoses still attached) ,the alternator bracket bolts to the water pump( and rotate bracket across front of alternator out of the way) , water pump housing and pump as one unit. (Unfortunately I was unable to remove the temperature gauge sensor from the housing so this had t stay on the car and be gently positioned to one side). The six bolts holding the double pulley on the crankshaft were then removed allowing access to the crankshaft nut. As can be seen from the photograph this was removed by putting a suitably sized bolt in the hole located on the circumference of the “harmonic balancer” and then jamming against a chassis member it with an eleven inch long piece of wood. This worked exceptionally well and the bolt undid easily with a two foot long breaker bar. The harmonic balancer was then removed with a puller ( must not use gear puller on outside as it will pull harmonic balancer apart Use one with two bolts that screw into the pulley holes ( bolts at two and seven eighth inch centres). Timing chain case then removed to expose the timing chain and sprockets ( four half inch head bolts and four nine sixteenth inch head bolts). I purchased the following parts:
1. A Cloyes Steel Duplex timing chain set for 383 engine ( and single bolt fixing rather than three bolt( three bolt I understand was for S.P.’s)-£109.00 ( set no. 9-3104 (chain separately is part no. 9-134)
2. Timing chain Gasket set -£16.07
4. A late 440 water pump and gasket for cars with air con.-£47.08 ( this arrived as an aluminium pump part no.. 18-510/FP1471)
5. A Wizo high flow 160 degrees thermostat and gasket -£13.74
Two new push rods were also purchased.
One of my questions to the list was:
“It is possible to remove the sump on an FF”.
The responses were:
1.I’ve done it myself. You’ll need to remove the plate at the bottom of the transmission and slacken off the front drive shaft mountings. Remove all the sump bolts, drop the sump a fraction, push it backwards a bit and twist it and it will, just, come out”
2. Taking off the sump is an easy job on an FF. The crossmember needs removing, but that is all. The larger oil pump does fit the FF, but you will need longer bolts too as I recall. It is more tricky to fit, but does clear everything when installed. There is a cross member towards the back of the engine, under the gearbox/engine joint. If the gearbox is still attached to the engine, and the mounts are OK, This can be removed after taking out the 4 bolts, and (I’m almost sure about this) the starter too… There is a prop shaft support bracket, and I think this may need to come off/be moved. As I recall, there is no problem at the front end of the car with the front subframe, once you have the space to move at the back end.
Photos 1 & 2 o- underside of FF engine showing sump . I needed to remove the engine oil sump.Photo 3- shows removal of rear cross member. Photo4 – shows the the prop shaft support bracket. The propshaft is supported by a bracket on the propshaft and a bracket on the autobox joined by two”cotton reel” type mountings I removed the two bolts holding the mountings and also the lower of the engine bracket bolts. This allowed me to free the propshaft and move it sufficiently sideways to swivel the rear of the sump and allow the front of the sump to clear the front crossmember and drop down clear of the oil strainer and engine. Photo 5 showing the windage tray which I understand is standard on the FF.This tray can only? be removed after the oil strainer tube is unscrewed. You need two sump gaskets because of the windage tray. Photo 6 shows the crank and the unfastened propshaft support bracket. Photo 7- The top and bottom rubber bushes sporting the propshaft as seen in photo 6 were perished and replaced by 2 new bushes obtained from Cropredy Bridge garage. This photo shows the old steel inner part of the ash and the replacement new rubber. It all goes together quite easily. Photo 8 I had to remove the small cover plate to the auto box and tie up the front propshaft to drop and then rotate the sump and then gently? force the sump to come out of its confines. Took me about 2 hours of mental and physical effort to get it off. Photo 9 – is of the windage tray and sump after removal.
when I brake heavily I used to loose oil pressure. It would return after a second. I took advise and it no longer appears to happen. The advise was:
This is caused by oil surge allowing air into the pickup. Sometimes pressure will not come back because the pressure relief valve sticks open. (Cured by undoing the large nut on the oil pump and pushing hard on the valve to re-seat it). A stronger spring will overcome this tendency to stick open which can happen at other times too.This stronger spring is the black one? and can give readings in the 80lb range too. The pressure loss can be due to low oil level and in some cars even the full level isn’t enough to stop it. Try an extra half litre in the sump. This is usually enough to stop pressure drop when braking very hard or on fast cornering.
On the List was written:
383/440 oil pressure A Chrysler engineer I cornered once at the Regional HQ of Mopar told me that the following were good rules of thumb:
1. Hot idle oil pressure in a Big-Block can be as low as 15 psi without fear of damage, so long as the pressure builds instantly off idle.
2. For the health of the bearings a B-Block needs 10 psi for every 1000 rpm of engine speed. Thus 30 psi is OK for 3000 rpm, 50 for 5,000 rpm and so on. 50 psi running is plenty; if you’re using more than 5,000 rpm frequently, with the reciprocating mass of that motor, your risking big end bangs anyway.
I’ve just fitted the high torque starter motor. The old one simply unbolted and I withdrew it upwards through the engine bay ( possible on the FF, but not, I think, on the Interceptor). I had to modify the bracket that supports the front propshaft but that was all.
I also needed to remove the 5/8th bolt holding the front propshaft support bracket before I could access the bottom starter motor bolt.The bottom starter motor bolt is tucked into a small space and needed a 5/8th socket to reach it.
I tried to remove it from underneath and found the front propshaft in the way.
Then discovered it came out easily from above past the exhaust manifold.
Here is a comparison of the two motors This phot shows the new starter motor in place .The solinoid coonections are very close to the engine block. the photo also clearly shows the jump wire needed with this starter motor. Cropredy provided the wire at the time of purchace .
Putting it all back together looked easy except that when the new high torque motor was in place I could not reconnect the front propshaft support bracket bolt. I had to remove the bracket and grind down part of it to make it fit.