Lighting

Lighting

Photos of rear nearside light cluster.Chrome back plate unit is an Altissimo part No. “S” 294.01.80 ( the Offside unit is part No. “D” 294.01.90. All other bits the same as nearside unit)) Indicator lens is part No. IGM 2555 IP; Brakelight IGM 2554 LPX- Altissimo 294.12.01; Reflector is Altissimo 301.12.03; Reversing light lens is IGM 2556 PR.

The rear light cluster seal is Altissimo part No. 294.11.80. I bought a length of black “U” shaped seal that simply goes round the light cluster lip. I also used this sealing strip round the fuel filler flap which looks OK on my car which is a very dark brown.

1 2 3 4 5

I didn’t have any holes made in the front valance for the indicator/side lights which are obviously the Italian Altissimo ones. I was advised for the FF as follows I took these measurements off the Mk1 FF, lights fitted. Measured from the from the inside edges of the Altissimo lights, mine measures 108cm. (MK 1 Interceptors are different, as the front panel on the Interceptor is very different) This means that the outer edges are positioned nicely to start after the concave curve on the leading edge of the front wing starts. The upper edge of the light is positioned so that the rubber seal sits as high up as possible, while still sitting on the vertical flat of the panel. So where the radius on the upper edge of the panel below the grill finishes, the seal starts. Photo 3 shows the hole as cut using a small drill/grinding cutting sets

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The set was brilliant. Came with 2 reinforced cutting wheels about 1″ in diameter and they did both sides and without the heat of grinding effecting the surrounding paint Photo 4 – I only hope they are in the right place

The Chrome surround that holds the light in place,the light bowel and the 5 3/4 ” sealed beams are the same as my 1966 Triumph Vitesse. The Vitesse’s were better so I swapped them over.

I have a 1966 Triumph Vitesse with the same 4-headlight arrangement as the Jensen. The light bowls at the rear of all 4 headlights are the same as on my FF, except for the adjusters, which are just of a slightly smaller diameter? Second hand bowls come with the adjusters attached, so as a unit they are a direct replacement. New one are without adjusters and you have to buy an adjuster set I gave one to Cropredy Bridge Garage who also considered that they are the same (save for the adjusters).

INDICATORS –

photo showing location of flasher unit under drivers side dash

UPGRADING HEADLIGHTS

A) I ASKED THE LIST ABOUT UPGRADING THE HEADLIGHTS ON MY MK1 FF:

One of the sealed beam units isn’t working, so I thought I might take the opportunity to upgrade. I think I am going down the Hella conversion kit route with say the H4 dual filament 100/80 watt bulbs and single filament H1 100 watt bulbs. However I seem to recall some discussions on Cibie and Wipac units. Did anyone come to any other conclusions (I will of course be introducing relays too)
The replies were:
1. The main only units have a very different beam pattern to the main/dip unit, therefore IMHO best combination is main only inner and main/dip outer with 4 main 2-dip beam. I found the xenon did make a difference, and with new units dip was fine for fast country roads, and main for A roads…PS I drive cross country to the station every working day in “Jenny”, so the lights get well used!
2. James said snip……..I would have all four head lights lit on both low and high beam………..That’s what I did with a conversion to relays as well…….A lot better but gets you lots of flashing as well.
3. Cibie: cheap and good. Go for main/dip/side on outer and main on inner. Wire 4 lamp main beam, 2 lamp dip. DO use the side bulbs, it really improves visibility of you to others when on side lights. Mail order in the UK go to
http://www.cars.u-net.com/cibie_m.htm and scroll to wards the bottom. They are about £24 each inc vat. Bulbs – buy the xenon? 30% brighter for same watts… They are worth it.Ensure your wiring is good. I have fitted a new front loom, but just use it to switch the relays with current coming direct off the alternator through a secondary fuse box
4. Do not bother about the Xenon. You would hardly notice the difference and they last much less. In use they are less reliable.
5. I couple of links for your consideration before you spend your hard earned cash:-http://www.xenon-hid.com/Headlights-sealed-beams.htm and http://www.piaa.co.uk/lamps/lampshow.asp?ID=HID Regarding the Cibie headlights – I have the units as described below. The hi beam is great but the low beam is disappointing ………….. If I was doing the conversion again I would have all four head lights lit on both low and high beam. I have also fitted high wattage lamps, not xenon. The links above may be a better way to go?
6. Basically the main beam only units have a longer throw than the combined ones, so give best combination on full beam. On dip I would prefer not to have 200w running when I am stuck in traffic so this was a second reason to just run the outers on dip, you could have a cute relay arrangement that cut the inner dips in when out and about. I reiterate that the xenon work well for me, and the car is used daily to the station cross country all year, so in the dark both ways in the winter, no bulbs have blown after a year of use and there was a £3 ish difference per bulb for a much brighter whiter light. Only other downside of 4 dip beam is the flashing of oncoming driver…. On my previous car (Ur-quattro) we went the whole way with uprated bulbs, about 350w main beam, but it is just as much the lens pattern as the wattage that makes the difference, hence the long throw choice of dedicated main beam centre units… Whatever way you go, it’ll be miles better than the original units!! Good luck. If you want info on how I wired it let me know.
7. PS – I was NOT referring to HID Xenon bulbs, just the standard H4 replacement units from Halfords etc…. Big difference in price..!!
8. I had all 4 lights set up for dipped beam on my SP, all it did was light up the same area as with 2 headlamps but slightly brighter, it didn’t actually give any more useful light.I’ve had new headlamps fitted on my FF, the car is up being welded at the moment and I can’t remember what make they are. I didn’t think it was worth having all headlamps wired up for dipped beam….
9. The original lights in my 1975 MkIII prototype built to the 1976 specifications, except that the light were european standard, that is, they had the Q-H bulb inside the reflector whereas, and here I might be corrected
as I really do not know for sure, I would guess that the 1975/76 standard US specification III’s has sealed beam units. If this is true, then I postulate as follows:
A. I carry in the glove compartment a letter from the Texas DOT giving a special exemption to allow me to continue to use the Q-H bulbs as they were installed as original equipment and I want to maintain the integrity of the marquee.
B. This type of lighting system is fantastic. You can get 65/50 or 100/50, but, and here is the big but, the cut point between black and white or light and dark is pure and extremely controllable. The beam is flat in front, but
angles up and forward to the right to iluminate further on the shoulder.
C. The cut point is so great that there is virtually zero glare given to the oncoming driver, as contrast to the extremely hazy glare given to the oncoming driver when ANY standard sealed beam unit is used.
D. The glare point is so great that there is virtually zero glare given to the driver being overtaken in his rear view mirror as there is when ANY standard sealed beam unit is used.
E. The quality of the reflectors has greatly improved till there is virtually no deterioration of the reflector surface today.
F. The use of this technology, used by 220 countries, excluding the USA, except for motorcycles or offroad vehicles, has been a disgrace and promoted by ignorance and deep pockets.

IMHO, the best lights for the III, or any vehicle are the original lights installed by the factory for European use.
10. Cibie is an excellent idea. They are every bit as good as the Hella’s and they look a lot better, more like Lucas items, as the Hella’s are very flat. Wire the lights directly from the battery using fat wires and switch them through relay’s that are operated using the standard wiring/switches. That way you get the proper voltage to the lamps, which gives you more light and possibly longer bulb life when using halogen bulbs.

B) OTHER RELEVANT INFORMATION EITHER SENT TO ME OR FROM THE LIST:

1. Brett note that on the early Interceptors current for the headlights was drawn through the park light switch, then through the headlight switch. This came from an article in the White Lady Mag. Also suggested that the ground system for the headlights was very poor so remember to up rate this as well as the feed wiring. There is a low beam wire and high beam wire from the foot dipper switch to the fuse box. Use relays to carry the heavy current while the dash switches are used to control the relay. Note again that with most aftermarket automotive lighting relays the stated (advertised) capacity, is maximum not continuous so to make they relay last you want to run it at say two thirds capacity ie 20 amps through a 30 amp relay. The magazine suggested the following wiring set up with 2 relays in series

2. Interceptor Headlights. From: “Tom Garcia” tgarcia@folsom.ca.usDate: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 10:29:22 -0800From a post way back when. I don’t know if the web addresses are still current…Headlights: Headlight Upgrades This is a follow up on the conversion from incandescent to halogen E-code headlights for those who are interested, or who might be planning an upgrade anytime soon. The question was whether to use Cibie or Hella, the two most readily available manufacturers in the U.S. The normal disclaimers apply.After doing the obligatory reading at http://lighting.mbz.org/faq/ andhttp://www.jag-lovers.org/books/xj-s/26-Lightmods.html and correspondence with Daniel Stern, I settled on Hella H4 main/dip beams (outside pair) and H1 main beams (inside pair). The reason for me using Hella rather than Cibie’s is strictly cost/benefit. Daniel Stern states that Hella lights have a problem with the low/high cut off, that if you aim the low beams properly the main beams are too high. He contends that Cibie lights do not have this problem. This may be a problem with 2 headlight systems but on a 4 light system the properly aimed dedicated main beams (H1) can overcome the problem with the high/low beams (H4). At least, that’s the theory. We’ll see if it holds up in practice. The cost for the complete Hella system (2 ea. H1’s and H4’s) complete with bulbs was $156 U.S., and was purchased at a local race shop. (Yup, after all that E-commerce stuff, the cheapest prices were still right down the street.) This was about $100 less than the price of a Cibie set up ($259). If you are a cost is no object kind of person, then I’d go with Cibie, but ifyou want to use the extra change to buy a new parking switch or maybe some wheel emblems, then Hella is the way to go. IMHOThe following sites gave quotes on either product, so some industrious soul can try to barter with them if you have the patience: Daniel Stern: http://lighting.mbz.org/faq/ Good website and info, Competitive prices on Cibie, doesn’t sell Hella. Must email him for a quote Classic Garage:http://www.classicgarage.com/classicgarage/accessories-hella-lights.htmlCompetitive prices on Hella. Susquehanna Motor Sports: http://catalog.com/susq/hella/headlamp.htm Sells Ella, prices listed don’t include discounts. Email for information on current prices and discounts for complete 4-headlamp order.Aardvark International: http://cibieusa.com/cibie.htm Sells Cibie, Competitive prices. That’s all the light I can shed on this subject for now. I hope it helps someone. Tom G74 Int Conv71 Int Saloon

C) THE FOLLOWING IS A DIRECT COPY OF SOME OF THE INFORMATION ON THE “DANIEL STERN” SITE AT (http://www.danielsternlighting.com ). (A very informative site):
“So what does the headlamp circuit look like when we install relays? There are several things to notice in this diagram (see Daniel Stern lighting site)
Those seemingly random numbers on relays and sockets are universal (by Bosch decree…) terminal designators. On relays, we have:
86 is the relay switching (control) circuit input.
85 is the relay switching (control) circuit output. 30 is the power circuit input.
87 is the power circuit output.
The best relays to use in setting up a headlamp circuit have dual 87 terminals. That lets you use one 87 terminal to power the left filament, and the other 87 terminal to power the right filament in whatever circuit you’re building (low beam, high beam, fog lamp, etc.). Note that a terminal labelled 87a is not the same as an 87 terminal. On headlamp sockets, the terminal designations are as follows (not shown in diagram):
56a is the high beam feed.
56b is the low beam feed.
31 is ground.
Where to run the wires
Next, you need to choose a place to draw the power for the headlamps. The two most common choices are the alternator output (B+, BAT) terminal, or the battery positive post. So, which is the best power point?
On cars with full-current ammeters it is best to take power from the alternator output terminal, rather than at the battery Positive (+) terminal. This is so that when everything is in its ‘normal’ state (i.e., engine running, battery charged) then the power for the headlamps don’t go thru the car’s existing wiring at all. This is the wise way to do it on cars with full-current ammeters, because such gauges must carry *all* current for the entire car. Keeping heavy current loads out of this area reduces stress on the entire wiring system, and eliminates much voltage drop on the charging side of the wiring.
The vast majority of cars, however, do not have full-current ammeters, which makes it OK to take your choice, based on access and convenience, of the alternator or battery positive terminal (or power point terminals, on cars so equipped). These points are all electrically common, and any of them will serve equally well.
You may have heard that it’s not good to take headlamp power from the alternator output because of “voltage spikes”; this is a myth. No voltage spikes are present in an electrical system with good voltage regulation, and any spikes that are present in a system with bad voltage regulation are present in equal magnitude across the entire system. If your charging system is “spiky”, indicated by vehicle lamps that flash brighter and dimmer with the engine running at a steady speed, then you need to fix the problem that is causing the spikes!
Another consideration when tapping at the battery is the potential for corrosion. Keep those terminals clean-clean-clean, and once you’ve added the power wire to the positive battery cable, usually via a ring terminal, be sure to over spray the terminals with plastic-based spray made for the purpose.
Protecting the circuit with fuses
The system incorporates fuses in the power supply side of the headlamp power circuit, as close as possible to the power takeoff point (battery or alternator + terminal). This is very important! When you start tapping into places in the wiring harness that weren’t tapped originally, you must properly protect the wiring system with fuses. In the case of tapping into the “battery” connection on the alternator, for example: suppose your new headlight wiring (or a portion of the old wiring after the relay) shorts to ground. Without a fuse, you will start a fire somewhere! The alternator can typically pump out 60 amps or more, and the battery can contribute another 80 to 100 amps before the vehicle main fuse or fusible link blows. That’s in the order of 130A flowing through your wires, which will heat them to orange-hot immediately. Not to mention that if you do blow the main fuse, you are now stranded as well. And if you own an old classic without any sort of main fuse or total-circuit protection, the entire wiring harness can be quick-fried to a crackling, crunchy crisp in a matter of seconds. I have seen/smelled/heard this happen, and it is not soon forgotten. (Incidentally–if you drive such a car, ADD A MAIN FUSE OR FUSIBLE LINK!)
Notice that in the diagram of the upgraded headlamp switch, the wires to the headlamps themselves are heavier. If you are going to the trouble of fixing inadequate factory headlamp wires, do a complete job and run good wires all the way to the headlamps. The necessary pieces and parts to facilitate such an improvement, such as fuse holders and headlamp sockets compatible with large-gauge wire, can be difficult to find locally. Parts stores tend to carry the same inadequately small gauge stuff your car originally came with. Packages containing all these necessary parts, dual-87 relays, and all the rest of the “juicy bits” are available here.
Selecting wire sizes for use in lamp circuits
Use only stranded wire, never solid (household type) wire, in automotive applications.
Wire gauge selection is crucial to the success of a circuit upgrade. Wire that is too small will create the voltage drop we are trying to avoid. On the other hand, wire that is of too large a gauge can cause mechanical difficulties due to its stiffness, particularly in pop-up (“hidden”) headlamp systems. The headlamp power circuit ought to use no less than 14-gauge (2.5 mm2) wire, with 12-gauge (4.0 mm2) being preferable. 10-gauge (5.2 mm2) can be used if bulbs of extremely high wattage are to be used, but it’s usually overkill. Be sure to pick a kind that flexes easily if yours is a hidden-headlamp system. Do not fail to use the large wire size on both sides of the headlamp circuit! Voltage drop occurs due to inadequate grounding, too! you will only sabotage your efforts if you run nice, big wires to the feed side of each headlamp, and leave the weepy little factory ground wires in place. Most factory headlamp circuits run the too-thin ground wires to the car body. This is an acceptable ground–barely–on a new car. As a car ages, corrosion and dirt build up and dramatically increase resistance between the car body and the ground side of the vehicle’s electrical system. It takes little extra effort to run the new, large ground wires directly to the battery Negative (-) terminal or to the metal housing of the alternator, and this assures proper ground.
Where to mount the relays
Relays are very compact–about 1 inch by 1.5 inches. Because they take up so little space, it is relatively easy to mount them in an optimal location. Because the main idea with this upgrade is to minimize the length of the headlamp power circuit in order to bring the producer and consumer as close together (electrically) as possible, it is best to mount the relays at the front of the car near the power source (alternator, battery or power point) and near the headlamps. Because you will need at least two relays–one for high beam, one for low beam–you will want to use relays that incorporate a snap-lock feature to create tidy relay banks that can be made to look like factory installations if the wiring is done neatly. These relays also use moulded terminal blocks so that all of the wires come together into one relay socket, which is preferable to having individual wires without a supporting plug. These are the relays included in the installation packages available here. “

D) COPY OF SOME OF INFORMATION FROM CIBIE LIGHTING as at 10th Sept 2004 (http://www.cars.u-net.com/cibie_m.htm)

E) INFORMATION FROM DEMON TWEEKS (http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk)
Relays £2.65-£5.84 (exc VAT) Available for either 12 or 24 volt applications and in either standard on/off 4 pin, changeover or standard on/off 5 pin options. The 12 volt relays are rated at 30 amps and the 24 volt options are at 20 amps.

(I used three, 5 pin relays, one for the left and right dipped in the outer lights the second for the left and right main beam in the outer lights and the third one for the main beams in the left and right inner lights)

F) THE FINAL RESULT WAS AS FOLLOWS:

1. On my car there have only ever been two wires leading to each of the 4 headlights with H1 sealed beams for all 4 lights. They were wired so that the outer lights (H1’s but physically set to point down and act as dipped beams) just stay on when the inner main beams (H1’s set higher) were on.
2. After removing the sealed beam units I discovered that the mounting pods for the inner and outer lights were different. The inner ones were marked “5 3/4 inch -1” the outer ones were marked “5 3/4 inch -2”. I presume the 1 and 2 references relate to their use for H1 and H4 lighting units. The difference appears to be simply that there are notches cut into the rim of the pod that allows the light units to locate properly. These notches are in a slightly different location on the 5 3/4-1 and 5 3/4-2 pods. No wonder I couldn’t work out why the H1 sealed beam units never seated properly as they were in H4 pods.
3. My shopping list was:
a) Cibie light units (2 X H4 units and 2 X H1 units) because they are a closer styled replacement of the original lights, as opposed to the Hellas.
b) 2 X 100/85-watt H4 main/dipped bulbs in the outer lights and 2 X 100-watt H1 main bulbs for the inner lights.
c) Wiring for the light fittings was obtained from Auto Sparks. They make up standard sealed beam high/low 3 pin (for H4 bulb) connectors with 3, 35 inch 17 amp wires as a unit (wires are standard blue/red, blue/white and black). To get the necessary length from the lights at the furthest corners ( nearside for me) I asked them to make up 2 of the them with 2 meter lengths of wire.
d) One meter each of blue/red and blue/white 25 amp wire for the relay power feeds.
4. Given that I was going to use relays the rewiring for the higher wattage bulbs wasn’t really a problem. I picked up the feeds to operate the relays from the existing, but now redundant bullet connectors, which were left after removing the wiring to the original offside headlights. The original wiring arrangement needed replacing because of the higher wattage bulbs.
5. These bullet connectors are located at the left hand side front of the radiator (as you look at it). There are three double bullet connectors. One is attached to a thick blue/red wire (main beam), a second to a thick blue/white wire (dipped beam) and a third to a thin black wire (earth). Why there is a thin black earth wire serving the lights alongside thick live wires beats me. By using the existing connectors for the low power feed to the relay, it avoided me having to consider the wiring layout through the dipswitch etc. (well so I thought) My relays are located on the outside of the existing metal relay housing in the engine compartment. New 17 amp wires of the appropriate colour were taken from these three connectors to operate the new relays.
6. I have used three 5 pin 30 amp relays (each relay having 2 power circuit outputs, one for each side of the car). One feeds the inner main beam filaments the second the main beam filaments in the outer lights and the third the dipped light filaments in the same outer lights. The power feeds from the relays to the lights are also 17 amp wires, again in their appropriate colours.
7. The main power feeds to the relays come are in 25 amp wire from an existing 4 way copper connector that I previously installed (this connector is fed direct from the alternator via a 40 amp in line fuse).
8. I also took a new earthing wire from the body of the alternator to the earth point I was using next to the relay box.
9. In total the 2 main beam inner lights will draw =16.7 amps (200watts/12 volts). Hence the need for 25 amp wiring on the power feed side to the relays. The wiring from each 5 pin relay to each light unit is thinner 17 amps wiring (each lamp filament drawing around 8.35 amps. The two outer main beam filaments also draw 16.7 amps and the two outer dipped beams 14.2 amps (170 watts/12 volts)
10. On main beam the amperage draw is therefore 34 amps (400watts/12volts) on dipped only 14.2 amps. This suits me as I only have a 65 amp alternator and when driving around town etc at night the draw isn’t excessive.
11. The inner lights, being H1, only have 2 terminals. The H4, 3 pin connector fits, but with one terminal unused and the wire cut off.
12. Having wired everything up and switched on I discovered that when I used the dipswitch, it didn’t switch between dipped and main, it just switched the main beams on as well. For some reason this wasn’t what I thought, was going to/supposed to happen according to the wiring diagram even though when I stop to think about it I knew how the lights operated in practice. Eventually I found the blue/red wire operating the dipped beam was connected to the blue, live feed from the light switch. This might have been how the factory wired it so that all 4 headlights were on when main beam was selected (bearing in mind that originally I just had dipped lights only on the outers and main only on the inners.

Would I do anything different now? Possibly. Still fancy all 4 headlights working on dipped beam, but that would have meant obtaining 53/4-2 pods for the inner main/dipped lights (or modifying the existing 5 3/4-1 pods) and a fourth relay. However, I would loose the better-dedicated main beam light pattern of the Cibie H1 lights. At some time I might buy the blue bulbs, because I think they look cool.

10. Diagram of actual modifications below

Shoping List:

1. Demontweeks,. Tel no. 01978 663035 (website http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk ):

a) 3 standard on/off 5-pin 12volt 30amp relays at £3.21p each from

2. From autosparks ( http://www.autosparks.co.uk):

a) One meter each of blue/red and blue/white 25 amp wire for the relay power feeds.Order: 1 metre C 144 blue/red (44/0.30 PVC @ 33p per metre) and 1 metre C 144 blue/white (44/0.30 PVC @ 33p per metre). However I am told that the correct way of wiring it would be for the power feeds to all the relays to be in 25 amp blue wire and that only the feeds from the relays to the light units need to be in the correct colour

b) 2 meters of 15 amp black PVC cable for the eath feeds to the relays Order: 1 metre C 144 black (44/0.30 PVC @ 33p per metre);

c) They make up standard sealed beam high/low 3 pin (for H4 bulb) connectors with 3, 35 inch 17 amp wires as a unit (wires are standard blue/red, blue/white and
black). To get the necessary length from the lights at the furthest corners ( nearside in England) I asked them to make up 2 of the them with 2 meter
lengths of wire. Order: 4 sets of ready made lighting wiring (17amp) being item “C 808”. But note special order for: 2 sets having the standars 35″ wiring and 2 sets with 2 metre wiring (Price: £3.60p each excluding VAT)

3. From Cars Classic And Rally Services ( http://www.cars.u-net.com):

a) Cibie light units 2 X H1 units and 2 X H4 units) because they are a closer styled replacement of the original lights, as opposed to the Hellas.Order 2 of H130 RHD 5¾” H4 MAIN/DIP (Price: £19.59p each excluding VAT) and 2 of H130 – 5¾” H1 MAIN BEAM (Price: £ 17.73p each excluding VAT)

b) 2 of 100/80-watt H4 main/dipped bulbs ( price £3.38p each) in the outer lights and 2 of 100-watt H1 main bulbs for the inner lights.(price £2.84p each)

Photo of all the bits and pieces bought for the upgrade.

Photo of the 5 pin relay bought from Demon Tweeks

photo of the H4 lamp and 85/100 watt H4 bulb

Photo of the H1 lamp, rubber grommet/adaptor and H1 bulb

Close up photo of the Osram H1 bulb

Close up photo of the Osram H4 bulb

Close up photo of the H1 grommet/adaptor for the H1 bulb

Photo of the H1 light unit with the bulb fitted. As mentioned above the large rubber grommet has an inbuilt adaptor that fits the bulb terminals. The terminals sticking out are from the adaptor

Photo of the H4 light unit including the rubber seal, through which the three H4 bulb terminals protrude, and on which the 3 pin connector to goes.

Photo of the H4 light with the bulb fitted and the 3 connectors visable

Photo of front grill showing the location of the 4 cross head screws that hold the grill in place. Behind the grill are located the bullet connectors for the lights

Photo showing the location of the two power feeds (blue/white and blue/red) and the earth from which the offside (British) are were fed. The power feeds were thick 25? amp wire but the earth feed was only 17 amp? ish black wire. Those double bullet connector actually fed 4 lights. two 17 amp wires came out of the bottom of connector and went to the 2 offside lights and one of the wires still in the top part of the bullet connector went across the front to the other (nearside) lights and formed the feed to those using another dopuble bullet connector.Note that the bullet connectors are infront of the radiator but behind my after market fitted transmission oil coiler..

Photo of the outer dipped/main beam housing showing the original 3 pin connector, but with only 2 pins wired (because prior to upgrading all 4 of my lights were H1 sealed beam units).

Photo showing the 5 3/4-2 mark on the pods that the H4 light units fit into- these should be positioned as the outer lights. In my case on close inspection one side had them the wrong way round. This explained why one of the old sealed beam light units never fitted properly

Photo showing the 5 3/4-1 marck on the pods that the H1 light units fit into- these should be positioned as the inner lights

The old wires just went through the pods and were sealed/protected with a rubber gromet. Easily pushed through so the old wires can be removed and the new ready made up ones installed

Photo of new wiring and replacement gromet that protects the wires as they pass through the pod housing. In practice this rubber grommet doesn’t act as a seal unlike the old ones. In retrospect I wish I had put silicon sealant around the wires where they went through this grommet

Photo of the location of the wires that feed the nearside lights as they pass through a grommet into the radiator area

Pulling through the wires from the light units to the relay locations. The legth of wire as made up with bullet connectors in place was 35 inches for the closest lights. This meant that I could cut the unwanted length off and these lengths including the male bullet connectors coul be used to plug into the empty double connector infront of the radiator and form the switching feeds to the relays. As very little amperage was now being drawn though these wires the 17 amp wiring was satisfactory.

Close up photo of the h1 grommet/adaptor for the H1 bulb

Photo showing the location of the three lighting relays. No. 1 feeds the dipped beam filiaments in the H4 bulbs in the left and right hand side outer lamps. No. 2, feeds the main beam filiaments in the H4 bulb in the left and right hand side outer lamps, and No. 3, feeds the main beam filiament in the H1 bulbs in the left and right hand side inner lamps.

Closer view of the three relays

Photo showing the wiring arrangement of the dipswitch. Easy to remove only 2 pozidrive head screws hold it in place beneath the foot pedal. Originally I thought I had a problem with this switch. They are easily available being the standard dipswitch for many britsh cars.